THE LOWDOWN

Situated at the top of the high street, you’ll find the oldest building in the historic North Norfolk market town of Holt. The former ironmongers and hardware shop, dating back to the 15th century, has been home to Byfords, a self-proclaimed “posh” B&B, café/restaurant and store, for the past 20 years. The beating heart of Holt, Byfords survived the great fire of 1708 which wiped out the rest of the town.

A member of the Norfolk Passport family of businesses (which includes Ffolkes in Hillington, The Assembly House in Norwich and The Pigs in Edgefield), Byfords serves food all day, hosts monthly jazz nights and themed afternoon teas, and accommodates overnight guests. At the entrance, Byfords Store has a fanbase all of its own, devoted to its fresh homemade goodies.

There’s a lot on offer at Byfords, which begs the question: does it do all these things well? The world seems to think so as they’ve won a whole host of awards (including – the only one that really matters! – Best Boutique Stay in the Muddy Awards 2023). Not that I am one to question your amazingily good taste, but I went along to give it my own seal of approval.

THE VIBE

It may well be steeped in history, but there is nothing stuffy or ancient about Byfords. It is quirky yet classic, relaxed yet buzzing, vintage yet modern, thoughtful yet non-intrusive – a higgledy-piggledy mishmash of contradictions that just work.

For this pair of weary travellers, who arrived a bit flustered after a long, hot drive where the air-con in the car had packed up on one of the hottest days in June, stepping into Byfords was like coming home. It’s the touches like the lovely picture gallery of local people and landmarks lining the corridor, the smell of proper food wafting throughout the downstairs, the kind member of staff who checked us in and pushed our dinner reservation back so we could catch our breath, which gives Byfords this relaxed, unpretentious, home-like vibe.

Our room was in the part of Byfords which the staff refer to as the “old bit”, and after taking on the time-worn wooden staircase, I can see why. I’d describe the rooms as being on the relaxed side of grand, mixing period charm (that carved wooden canopy bed frame!) with contemporary comforts (TV with SKY, a rainforest shower, superb wifi, kettle, and bluetooth speakers). The dark-wood floors and accessories, an exposed brick fireplace, worn leather upholstery and rich red and blue colour scheme give the room a cosy warmth.

All exposed flint walls, flagstone floors and original wood panelling, the dining area is large with an open and spacious central area, which used to be the courtyard, now restyled using timber frames. Its high ceiling really opens the place up, yet there are still plenty of intimate and cosy nooks to relax in. Byfords could easily cater for a romantic date night in one area and a larger party or event in another, without one impacting the other.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Bring your appetite! The menu may be modest but the portion sizes are anything but. I’d say the food is traditional but with a twist (stone-baked pizza topped with black pudding and a fried egg, cola-soaked pulled pork, sticky toffee pineapple upside-down cake). Classic but make it memorable, which means both foodies and the less adventurous will be satisfied, with veggies and vegans not forgotten either.

The grazing part of the menu acts as either starters or small bites if you didn’t heed my warning to arrive hungry. Byfords recommend one to two plates per person as a starter, or three to four if you are doing a tapas-type thing. We erred on the side of caution and went for three – a generous helping of smoked mackerel atop toasted focaccia with cucumbers and caper berries; crispy duck and ginger dumplings with a thick hoisin sauce; and calamari with harissa and lime mayo. The verdict – a lovely medley of flavours all of which were divine.

The menu is changed quarterly as it’s seasonal and relies on local produce, but there are some staples that remain or there would be an outcry! That is the house curries, the kedgeree and the Byfords steak and chip salad – the latter dish being a recent return to the menu which won’t be going anywhere fast thanks to rave reviews from Norfolk Passport members (more on this below).

Knowing that seafood is a specialty, I went for the kedgeree – Cley smoked haddock, prawns and rich, creamy, spiced rice with a perfect poached egg sitting pretty on top. My partner opted for the oven-baked duck hash – a combination of slow-cooked shredded duck leg, crispy fried potatoes and spring greens, which are topped with pink roasted duck breast and, the pièce de résistance, another perfect poached egg. Delicious, hearty, soul food.

It is worth noting that despite our visit taking place on a busy Friday night, diners were not being rushed through their meals and the experience was relaxed and unhurried.

It is definitely worth saving room for dessert. I reluctantly threw in the towel after my delicious kedgeree but my partner could not decide between the Byfords double chocolate cheesecake and the chocolate brownie sundae so we were brought smaller portions of both so he could try (another word to the wise, a Byfords small is not that small). Both were amazing, but the cheesecake got an especially big thumbs up – a rich, smooth, melt-in-your-mouth slice of heaven.

Arriving on such a hot day it would have been remiss not to sample an ice cold Byfords IPA and classic negroni while we deliberated the menu. Drinks wise, Byfords tick all the boxes without being obsessive – quality over quantity. There are only four cocktails and four draught ales to chose between and a small selection of wines, bottled beers and soft drinks (for those not stumbling upstairs afterwards). To accompany our meal we went for a smokey French red which paired with our mains perfectly.

Breakfast for those staying is served between 8am and 11am, which is surprisingly sociable and allowed for a well needed lie-in. The continental breakfast buffet (which we could return to as many times as we wanted) is a fabulous spread of fresh fruit, yoghurt, meats, cheeses, pastries and cereal (great if you’ve got hungry kids in tow).

All hot food and drink is made fresh to order, with a choice of your usual brunch fare – and then some. Fried breakfasts with all the trimmings, variations of eggs Benedict, omelettes and sausage sarnies keep traditionalists happy, whilst gelato shakes, handmade waffles heavy on the ice cream, cakes and even pizza really draw in the crowds. If you have a hankering for a Byfords brunch at the weekend I recommend booking in advance. Portions are generous (a theme here!), perfect for filling up before a long hike along the coastal path.

A word for those who prefer to be only lightly caffeinated – the coffee here is STRONG. The cups are small and they typically make each drink with a double shot which is great if you are a coffee fiend (like me) but if you don’t like something as intense ask for one shot or you’ll be jittering your way round Holt for the foreseeable.

The afternoon tea is another serious crowd pleaser, especially the afternoon tea extravaganza. At this themed event, held on the last Sunday of every month, you can fill up on as many cakes and scones as you wish – I know, sounds dangerous. As you can imagine, booking is essential.

Our tummies might have been full but our bags certainly weren’t, so a swing by the Store was a must on the way out. Everything is made from scratch and the choice of hot and cold sweet and savoury treats is insane. There’s everything from fresh bread, savoury pastries, croissants, big cakes, little cakes, fridge cakes, desserts from the dinner menu, and there’s even ready made dough for you to bake at home.

We couldn’t make up our minds so went for a selection – rocky road, carrot cake, chocolate flapjack, Bakewell tart, oh, and a Guinness cupcake (yep, you heard me) – needless to say they didn’t last long. Shoppers at the Store regularly spill out onto the high street waiting for a slice of the good stuff. Hot tip: pre-order online to avoid the queues!

PILLOW TALK

Catering for all holiday makers, there’s 16 rooms to chose from and one self-catering apartment that sleeps five. They have three different types of room – Posh, their largest; Double, still positively posh but slightly smaller; and Family, which has a double bed and separate twin room. The majority of rooms are upstairs, with ours accessed by a fairly narrow, wooden staircase which might be a bit tricky if trying to manoeuvre larger (or multiple) suitcases.

The rooms are relatively small but we weren’t left wanting – and all space is used exceptionally well. As with the rest of Byfords, the design and decor has been meticulously put together, with just the right balance of individual style and homely comfort – cue the fireplace adorned with old trunks, boots and bamboo walking sticks, and the old writing bureaux stylishly snug in its recess.

They are in the process of refreshing all of the rooms, which each have a local theme celebrating an aspect of North Norfolk and a local expert in that field. Our room was a tribute to the iconic brown hare, with an accompanying framed handwritten note and photograph from local wildlife cameraman and owner of North Norfolk Safaris, Martin Hayward Smith. Another room that I took a peek in had a theme of Norfolk’s wildflowers. I loved this nod to the local – a great way of sharing the best of our cultural and natural heritage with visitors.

The bathroom had a large bath and separate indulgent rainforest shower with Temple Spa products to use – the divine smell of which wafted throughout our room. You are thoughtfully provided with all the stuff you’re likely to forget – cotton pads, cotton buds, sanitary products. I particularly liked the fresh flowers, candles and jar of bath salts – nice touch.

Each room is checked by a member of front of house staff after housekeeping have been in to make sure everything is “just so” – that the teaspoons line up with the mug handles, the half moon biscuits fit together, that Classical FM is playing to set the tone.

If I had to be nitpicky, our room was on the warmer side but that it is to be expected in an older building. It wasn’t however overbearing as there are enough windows to be opened and, despite our room overlooking the high street, we weren’t disturbed by traffic noise. With the kind of mattress and pillows that you sink into like a hug, not much could have woken me!

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS?

Yes! There are two rooms on the ground floor which are suitable for people with mobility issues but only one room which is offically disabled friendly with support rails, step-free access, etc. In an old building like Byfords, with its wonky staircase and landings across different levels, this is really good. For the most part the restaurant is all on one level too. The entrance to the B&B reception is at the back of the building where you’ll find a small car park, plus there’s a public car park just around the corner.

DOG FRIENDLY?

No, your four-legged friend will have to miss out on a trip to Byfords (unless you sit outside) as the premises are a no-pooch zone.

OUT & ABOUT

Heaven for shoppers, Holt is brimming with gorgeous independents. You can find some Muddy must-visits here and we received so many recommendations from the staff on their favourite places, everything from wax melts and luxe leather accessories to vintage clothes and antiques. Speaking of, Holt is great for antique hunters and purveyors of second hand – word of advice, bring cash with you for haggling. With so many lovely alleyways to explore, you’re likely to discover a new treasure trove daily. To not miss a trick, follow the Owl Trail to learn about the town as you shop. Holt is also home to a monthly Sunday market that offers a wide range of goods, from fresh produce to handmade crafts.

You’re perfectly situated to explore the Norfolk coast with the likes of Blakeney, Cromer, Sheringham and Cley practically on the doorstep. Jump on the North Norfolk steam train just outside Holt and travel to the traditional seaside town of Sheringham. In the other direction – head towards Morston and Blakeney where you can take a seal trip.

Attraction-wise there’s plenty of heritage sites to explore: Baconsthorpe Castle – a moated 15th century manor house, Binham Priory, Blickling Hall and Felbrigg Hall. There’s an abundance of places to walk around too (which is needed after the indulgence of Byfords). Spout Hills is the closest, with 14 acres of lush green space teeming with wildlife, then there’s Holt Country Park‘s vast woodland and heath to explore – the perfect place to enjoy a picnic from Byfords Store, whilst spotting wild ponies!

THE MUDDY VERDICT

GOOD FOR: People wanting to escape to the coast but not wanting to fall completely off grid. Those who like country cosy luxe with a side of honest homely food. It makes the perfect little staycation for locals and a home away from home for visitors to the area. Intimate couple’s break, singles, family or girls’ trip – it would work for all of these. If you fancy somewhere with a little bit more ‘to do’ in North Norfolk, Byfords has plenty to keep your occupied right on its doorstep, with independent boutiques, galleries and pubs!

NOT FOR: The über trendy, party people or anyone looking to experience the wilds of North Norfolk. Although they have the space to accommodate big parties, the vibe isn’t loud and rowdy. Spontaneous diners wanting to chance a table here might struggle, especially in the evening and at weekend brunch. The no-dog policy could be a dealbreaker for some.

THE DAMAGE: Affordable. The menu changes quarterly, but starters/grazing plates cost £4.50 each; mains £11.50-£18; and desserts £8.15. Brunch costs anywhere between £3.50 for croissants to £13.50 for a full English. Afternoon teas cost £19.50-£52. Get yourself a Norfolk Passport (free to apply) for 10% off your bill. For the B&B, Posh rooms start at £200 per night, Doubles from £170, Family from £235, and the apartment from £155. There’s a summer deal on two-night stays between Jul and Sep with 15% off.

Byfords, 1-3 Shirehall Plain, Holt, Norfolk, NR25 6BG. Tel: 01263 711400

Review: Byfords, Holt, Norfolk

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